Let me sing of what I know

Let Me Sing of What I Know (1)

A wild west Coast, a little town,

Where little Folk go up and down,

Tides flow and winds blow:

Night and tempest and the Sea,

Human Will and Human Fate:

What is little,what is great?

Howsoe’r the answer be ,

Let me sing of what I know.

                                                             William Allingham

Ballyshannon was the first town in County Donegal to publish a newspaper when The Ballyshannon Herald was printed on the Mall in 1831. This newspaper tradition was continued in the town with The Patriot, The Liberator, The Donegal Independent, The Donegal Vindicator and the Donegal Democrat. The newspaper tradition is another indication of the commercial prosperity of the area as local newspapers depended on local commercial outlets for advertisements.

Local newspapers are of great interest and value to the local historian and to the genealogist as they may be the only source for local events which were not written down elsewhere. Local newspapers also record advertisements, obituaries, property sales, sport, national events, and a host of local memories. Two of the pioneer editors in the development of newspapers in Ballyshannon were John McAdam and John Downey

John McAdam was born in Glasgow in 1856 and came to Ireland to work on The Tuam Herald. In 1889 he was invited by the Land League to set up a newspaper in Ballyshannon. The Donegal Vindicator was established on East Port in the town and supported Parnell and the Home Rule Party until the Parnellite Split over Kitty O’Shea. 

McAdam had a keen sense of social justice and also an interest in recording local history which is invaluable today. Two of the local papers The Ballyshannon Herald and The Donegal Independent merged into The Donegal Independent in 1884 with Samuel Delmege Trimble as proprietor. McAdam eventually gained control of The Donegal Independent which merged into The Donegal Vindicator. John McAdam was also proprietor and editor of The Derry Weekly News and The Tyrone Herald.

The  period of the independence struggle was a dangerous time for the McAdam family who courageously reported on local incidents in the struggle. The British Army raided the newspaper offices and arrested Eily and Kathleen McAdam and seized newspapers and files. They were later released without charge. During the Civil War (1922-1923) armed men entered the newspaper premises and smashed the printing press. Nevertheless despite intimidation the paper still continued to record local political and  community events  and is an important source in trying to gain a balanced viewpoint, alongside government records of the period.

John Downey, first editor of The Donegal Democrat was a son of Michael and Mary

Downey from Cashelard, and he was educated by Master Thomas McIntyre who had his school in College Street in Ballyshannon. He was employed in different printing establishments in Ballyshannon; working firstly with P.A.Mooney of The Donegal Independent. Later he worked in The Donegal Vindicator on East Port where was foreman in the printing works for John McAdam. In 1909 he was goal-keeper for the Aodh Ruadh Hurling Club and a staunch supporter of Gaelic games. Sinn Féin swept all before them in the 1918 General Election and the time was ripe for a new local paper  to reflect the changes in the country.  In 1919 John Downey established his own newspaper, The Donegal Democrat, with the backing of local business man Cecil Stephens, himself a keen local historian. The Donegal Democrat reflected the new nationalist Ireland and this newspaper also came under close scrutiny from the British Army at Finner.

John Downey presented The Democrat Cup for the  County Donegal  club championship in Gaelic games. He was also actively involved in promoting the Irish language through the Gaelic League. Downey had a keen interest in drama, the local brass and reed band, handball, the Red Cross and on every movement for the good of the town. He regularly recorded the activities of these clubs and also has left a rich legacy of local history which is not available anywhere else. In particular the two local newspapers courageously recorded the independence struggle of the 1920s which gives a rare and valuable insight into local incidents. Both papers were raided by the British military from nearby Finner Camp who on occasions seized documents and files. John Downey was buried in Cashelard on Friday 23rd of May 1947. Members of the Downey family still reside in Ballyshannon today.

The Year of the Gathering: Please let people with connections to Ballyshannon and surrounding areas know about this site, particularly people who are not living locally and those who are abroad. The site is called "Ballyshannon Musings" and there are a number of back issues. New items will be posted every week or so during 2013-The year of “The Gathering”. Keep in touch.

New Local History Book: “Ballyshannon Genealogy and History” by Anthony Begley details the history of the Ballyshannon area in the 19^th and 20th centuries including fishing,

sport, tourism, social history, flora and fauna, The Independence struggle, The Emergency, buildings, townland history and lots of reminiscences. 

The book covers an area roughly from Ballyshannon:

·        To Rossnowlagh, to Belleek, to Finner/ Bundoran to the Loughside and towards Ballintra. Contains 500 pages with much material on how to trace your roots. All the gravestone inscriptions in the 3 local cemeteries are recorded and indexed for ease of location. Includes many rare images and modern colour aerial photographs of the area.

Available from The Novel Idea Ballyshannon/The Four Masters Bookshop Donegal Town or can be ordered on line from anthonyrbegley@hotmail.com Price €25 softback plus postage if required. A limited number of hardbacks also available. Enquiries welcome.

Next Week’s Blog on local newspapers concludes with the contributions to local history of Cecil King, editor of “The Donegal Democrat,” and John Ward, editor of “The Donegal Vindicator”.

Ten Rarely Asked Questions about the Ballyshannon Area

 
50% Reduction on postage for orders for this book to all destinations. Genuine special offer from author. 

Ideal local gift for all special occasions.

Available at The Novel Idea Bookshop Ballyshannon, Ballyshannon and District Museum and The Four Masters Bookshop Donegal Town.

Signed hard back and soft back books available at special  price for postal delivery or collection. 

 Book Available from Anthony Begley West Rock Ballyshannon. anthonyrbegley@hotmail.com  Enquiries welcome for postal and other details. 




 
A New Local History Book suitable for those at Home and Away

A new book entitled: "Ballyshannon. Genealogy and History" reveals newly researched history and genealogy of the town, extending as far as the Rossnowlagh, Cashelard, Corlea, Clyhore, Higginstown and Finner areas. Includes the parishes of Kilbarron and Magh Ene.

The genealogy material provides detailed guidelines for anyone tracing their roots in the area or anywhere in County Donegal or Ireland. 

The book contains 500 pages and is richly illustrated with stunning colour, aerial photography, original illustrations and rare photographs of the area not seen before.

Topics include: How to go about Tracing your Roots/The first settlers in the area/ Newly researched history of the town of Ballyshannon and the townlands in Kilbarron and Mágh Éne parishes/ Records of the first travellers and tourists to Ballyshannon, Bundoran, Belleek, Rossnowlagh and Ballintra/An aerial guide to place names along the Erne from Ballyshannon to the Bar/Flora and Fauna of the area/ A history of buildings and housing estates in the locality/Graveyard Inscriptions from the Abbey graveyard, St. Joseph’s and St. Anne’s /Rolling back the years with many memories of the Great Famine, Independence struggle, hydro-electric scheme, Gaelic games, boxing, handball, Boy Scouts, soccer, mummers, characters, organisations, folklore and lots more.

Ten Rarely Asked Questions about the Ballyshannon Area

The questions (and answers) below are based on the history of the Ballyshannon area and have probably never been asked before. Ballyshannon is a very ancient, historic town and in November 2012, as part of the very successful Allingham Festival, a talk entitled “Forty Shades of Ballyshannon” drew a capacity crowd to the Abbey Centre and once again proved that there is huge interest in the history of the area.  Conor Carney and Patricia Keane added to the event with their professional readings and songs of old Ballyshannon. This talk was in memory of Louis and Kathleen Emerson who did tremendous work in keeping history alive in Ballyshannon and Co. Donegal. Most of the questions below were discussed at the talk in November and so this time I include the answers.

1.      According to legend who was involved in the first case of adultery in Ireland?

Ballyshannon lays claim to being the oldest town in Ireland with Parthalon and his followers settling here in prehistoric times. Unfortunately the annals record that his wife Dealgnait was unfaithful with a manservant Topa. (The full story is contained in the book “Ballyshannon Genealogy and History” listed above).

2.      Where was a 2,000 year old French sword found in Ballyshannon?

This sword was found in their nets by fishermen in the harbour at Ballyshannon around 1916. The sword was given to local historian Hugh Allingham, later sold to Andrew Lowry, a noted Donegal antiquarian, and today is in the National Museum in Dublin. This is called the Ballyshannon Sword Hilt as the piece of blade found became detached. A 2,000 year old sword from the La Tene period proves that trading at Ballyshannon goes back a long, long way. A copy of the sword hilt can be seen in The County Museum in Letterkenny and in Ballyshannon and District Museum.

3.      Who had the first licence for a pub in Ballyshannon?

This goes back to 1629 when Michael Folliott, a son of the first Baron of Ballyshannon and Robert Dillon, second Earl of Roscommon, were given the first licence to set up taverns, sell wines and to make liquor in Ballyshannon.

4.      This man was put in prison for eloping with a young lady and is remembered in a ballad?

The man in question was Willie Reilly and he eloped with Helen Folliott (Folliard) of Wardtown Castle which overlooks the Erne estuary near Ballyshannon. She was called The Colleen Bawn and there is a famous ballad devoted to the couple who were associated with Wardtown. Older people in the locality can still recite the ballad beginning:

“Oh rise up Willie Reilly and come along with me”

William Carleton wrote about their elopement and what followed. This is not to be confused with other tales of Colleen Bawns in other parts of the country. It’s about time our Colleen Bawn was recognised. The impressive shell of Wardtown Castle can still be seen today.

5.      What local woman disguised as a man became a national celebrity for a short time?

This true romantic tale could be made into a blockbuster movie. The lady was Anne Jane Thornton (1817-1877) who disguised herself as a sailor to leave Ballyshannon in search of her lover in America. Her adventures became public in “The Times” newspaper in London in 1835 and she became a celebrity for a time.

6.      Who came to Ballyshannon in 1922 and are still here 90 years later?

The Garda Síochána (police) arrived in College Street on the 13^th October 1922 to take up residence in the former R.I.C. Barracks. (This building is now the home of Mary and Benedict Dorrian)

7.      In the 1930s “sitting out in cars” was declared illegal. And the reason?

Last week’s blog discussed this topic and it would appear that it was feared the morals of the country would be in danger if couples were allowed sit in cars outside dance halls at the time!

8.      What Ballyshannon telegram led to an international debate?

This was a telegram sent by John Cleary to Frank Gallagher, solicitor for the fishermen, at the height of the affair concerning the Kildoney fishermen and others. They fought for the rights of local people to fish in the channel at Ballyshannon.

This event will be commemorated in 2013 on the 80^th anniversary of the winning of the case in 1933. A plaque will be unveiled at the Mall Quay on Monday 5th August 2013 with lots of events on the day. Google “The Gathering in Ballyshannon” for more details. It is hoped that people will return from abroad and elsewhere in Ireland to mark the unveiling of a memorial to those involved in this victory for the people. Hope to see you there. I will devote a blog to this historic event in 2013.

9.      Where was the first public library located in Ballyshannon in 1948?

Sixty four years ago, on the 22^nd December 1948, the first public library was opened in the old workhouse building on the Rock. Interestingly the library was run on a voluntary basis for a period at the beginning.

10.  What was a Belashannighan?

This was a name invented by internationally known author Seamus McManus who was originally from Mountcharles Co. Donegal. A Belashannighan was a person who loved the old town of Ballyshannon and who was, “proud of their great, true and beloved poet,” William Allingham. You don’t need to be born in the area to be a Belashannighan. So greetings Belashannighans wherever you are.

19th Century Commercial Ballyshannon

19th Century Commercial Ballyshannon

Last week’s blog showed how shops in the town were geared up for Christmas in 1889 and this week we take a brief look at some of the factors which made Ballyshannon a significant town one hundred and thirty years ago.

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Ballyshannon was a thriving commercial town in the 1880s although there was a recession at that time also:

•   The town served a wide hinterland in Fermanagh, Leitrim and Donegal. It was by far the most prominent trading town in south Donegal, if not in the county. (Partition in the 1920s was to have a significant effect on the local economy).  
• The town had all the normal civic offices but also had  2 banks- The Belfast Bank (now Gallogley’s Jewellers) and the Provincial Bank (now A.I.B.). The Belfast Bank with its iconic clock tower cost £4,000 to build and in return for being allowed to build outwards, narrowing the street, the bank provided the town with the clock which is still there today. Such was the planning process at the time!

•   There were  6 churches in Ballyshannon consisting of 2 Catholic, 2 Methodist, 1 Presbyterian and a Church of Ireland . ( In 2012 big changes as there are 3 churches- 2 Catholic and 1 Church of Ireland).
• Ballyshannon had a brewery, dispensary, post office, the Great Northern Railway station, numerous hotels and shops and a workhouse which also served a wide area in Fermanagh, part of Leitrim around Kinlough, Tullaghan, Bundoran, Rossnowlagh and close to Ballintra. 
• The military presence had been in the town since the Ulster Plantation and there was an English military barracks at the top of the steps at East Rock. ( the perimeter wall can still be seen in places). There was an R.I.C. police barracks on Main Street opposite Dorrian’s Imperial Hotel.
• The Market House still stood in the centre of town  (close to where O’ Reilly’s Fish shop is today), and two weekly markets were held in the Market Yard- a flax and pork market on a Thursday and one for grain and agricultural goods on a Saturday. The town was an important centre for fairs with one held on the second day of every month except of course in September when the Harvest Fair was held. Agriculture played an important role in the local economy.
• The harbour still saw cargoes such as coal and timber landing although shipping was much reduced in numbers due to the sandbar at the mouth of the harbour, shipwrecks, lack of insurance and competition from the railways. Emigrants in the 1880s used the train, which had a regular connecting service, and not the harbour as in former times. The Coastguard houses were occupied by staff and there was an Excise office and Weighmaster in the Market Yard.
• Fishing was a major source of income for local people, for the Erne Fishery Company and for local hotels. The first tourists to stay in the  Ballyshannon area were fishermen. Probably the finest craft in the town was that of Michael Rogan of the great fly-tying family who carried on the craft at West Port. (nowadays the Credit Union building).
• The Great Northern Railway (G.N.R.) arrived in Ballyshannon in 1867 and Bundoran was the end of the line locally. The railway connected scattered communities with the town, developed the seaside resort at Bundoran, brought in mail and newspapers and manufactured goods. Cattle could be exported to Britain starting their journey on cattle trains at Station road. Fish could be transported from Ballyshannon and be in the London market at Billingsgate the following day. The railway made it easier to emigrate and families gathered at the Station Road to bid farewell to loved ones commencing their journey abroad. (The County Donegal Railway (CDR) railway station was built in Ballyshannon at the beginning of the 20th century and then the town had 2 railways which were on either side of the river. Because of the width of gauge the two railways were not connected. Rossnowlagh and Creevy became popular with locals who used the C.D.R. train and many areas were now connected with town).

However the growth of the industrial revolution brought mass production of goods which were conveyed by railway to towns like Ballyshannon. Local hand crafts couldn’t compete and started to decline because of competition from imports and changes in society. Trades and crafts which gradually disappeared included salt manufacturers, candlemakers, tanners, saddlers, cart makers, white smiths, black smiths, weighmaster, shoemakers and brewers although Dicey Reilly’s is soon to resume this ancient Ballyshannon industry in 2012-2013.

Spread the Word: Thanks to people who contacted me in the past few weeks and are enjoying the blog in Hong Kong, New York, London, Australia, Canada, England, Zambia, Switzerland, U.S.A. and various parts of  Ireland. Please let people with Ballyshannon connections know about this site, particularly people who are not living locally and those who are abroad. The site is called "Ballyshannon Musings" and there are a number of back issues. New items will be posted every week or two. Keep in touch.

New Local History Book: “Ballyshannon Genealogy and History” by Anthony Begley details the history of the Ballyshannon area in the 19^th and 20th centuries including fishing,

sport, social history, flora and fauna, The Independence struggle, The Emergency, townland history and lots of reminiscences.  The book covers an area roughly from Ballyshannon:

•  To Rossnowlagh, to Belleek, to Finner/ Bundoran to the Loughside and towards Ballintra.
•   500 pages with much material on tracing your roots. All the gravestone inscriptions in the 3 local cemeteries are recorded and indexed for ease of location. Includes many rare images and modern colour aerial photographs of the area.  
• Available from The Novel Idea Ballyshannon/The Four Masters Bookshop Donegal Town or can be ordered on line from anthonyrbegley@hotmail.com Price €25 softback plus postage if required. A limited number of hardbacks also available.

Next Week’s Blog will look at how dancing and “sitting out” in cars was looked at in the  Ballyshannon area in the 1930s. Times have really changed!!

Christmas Shopping in Ballyshannon in 1889

Christmas Shopping in Ballyshannon in 1889

Christmas in 1889 saw lots of optimism with many business premises and private residences decorated for the festive season. As you journey through the streets of Ballyshannon in 1889 you can’t help but notice the large number of shops in the main thoroughfares.  There were a lot more shops in 1889 than in 2012 but some shops were smaller, in a few cases a front room in a house. For a more complete list of business premises check out The Ulster Directory of 1880 contained in “Ballyshannon Genealogy and History” noted at the end of the article.

Shopping in the Port

In 1889 the Port area in Ballyshannon was a thriving hub of business but alas the street surface left a lot to be desired. The post office and the Vindicator newspaper were on East Port and a host of local business premises were decorated for Christmas. A local correspondent for “The Donegal Vindicator” has left a descriptive account of Christmas shopping  in the busy town of Ballyshannon in 1889, although space prohibited the reporter listing all businesses:

The two Ports, East and West, though somewhat narrow, did their best to enliven the dullness caused by the thick layer of mud always there. At the extreme West Mr. P. Kelly’s premises were tastefully decorated with the orthodox evergreen, Mr. Peter Campbell’s leather warehouse being also tastefully done up.  Mr. J. Gillespie’s grocery establishment was also prettily adorned with evergreen.  At the Bridge end Mr. James Moohan had his extensive premises fancifully festooned, the decorations from lack of window space being principally inside the shop. Down the East Port Mr. Rapmund has expended great taste in ornamentation, as had also Mrs. Breslin, even the Post Office contriving to throw some brightness on its stern official aspect.  Mr. J. Ward’s two establishments were nicely done up, and across the way Mrs. Cunion’s drapery establishment was a glow of everygreen and holly.  Next door the “Vindicator” looked dull, gloomy and forbidding, as befits a Nationalist newspaper office in these days of prison dungeons and removeable law.  Right over the way, however, Mr. William Maguire’s premises made up for the dark spot by a glow of light and colour, set off with holly and evergreens.Mr. James Brown’s shop was very prettily decorated wiith the usual green.  The other shops along the Bridge were all decorated more or less and some of them looked really charming. 

It becomes evident as you follow the reporter through the main thoroughfares of Ballyshannon, how few of the families who ran businesses in 1889 are still in business today. This indicates, as much as anything does, the massive changes which have taken place in the past 120 years.

The Far Side

One of the great mysteries of life in Ballyshannon is, that no matter what side of the river Erne you were living on, you were said by the locals to be from ‘the far side.’ So crossing the bridge we come to the barracks on ‘the far side’ and the shops on the Main Street. The first building on your left is still called the old barracks, although it had not been used by the military since way before the Great Famine of the 1840s.

So that you can get your bearings in 2012  the old barracks is occupied by Diarmaid Keon (DKP) auctioneers and Erne Carpets today, the premises of Robert Sweeney listed below were located where the Bank of Ireland is today. P.B. Stephen’s ‘emporium’ is where Cecil Stephens of the same family has the post office today and where Mary McGuinness has the town’s bookshop called ‘The Novel Idea’.

The newspaper correspondent having crossed the 14 -arch bridge  resumed his descriptions of shops commencing at the bottom of the Main Street:

Crossing the Erne swollen by recent rains, the first place to catch the eye is Mr. John Cassidy’s licensed premises, and here quite an unusual array of floral decorations were to be seen and next door Mr. Potter had made a pretty show.The premises of Mr. M. Flanagan command attention. They make some thing like a pantomimic transformation scene, and especially after nightfall proved very attractive. Some of the choicest goods in the haberdashery line are here displayed amid a judicious arrangement of evergreens and large featherly plumes of foreign grasses.  When lighted up at night the effect is very pleasing and attractive.  The interior is also redolent of the festive season.The premises of  Mr. Michael  Cassidy, butcher, were also adorned in a most artistic manner. In the “barrack” decorations were necessarily confined to the interior, and Mr. Patterson, the courteous manager, must be complimented on the dazzling appearance presented on entering. Mr. John Stephens’ establishment was also handsomely ‘got up’ with evergreens and holly, not to speak of the tempting array of Christmas goods set off to such advantage.

Mr. Robert Sweeney’s large premises were decorated in every corner, and the windows displayed great taste in arrangement and style. Every Christmas novelty in the drapery line was procurrable here.  Mr. McClelland also had his place very beautifully decorated. Only a passing notice can be given to the premises up this fashionable thoroughfare. Mr. Renison’s premises sported a profusion of holly and evergreens, and Mr. Lipsett’s recent battles did not prevent him from flourishing the season’s emblems. Mrs. Mulhern’s premises were tastefully arranged.  Returning down the opposite side the nice arrangement of Messrs. Forde companies premises was noted. Mr. John Daly had an abundant show of evergreen interspersed with his Christmas stock of fancy drapery goods, nor was the boot and shoe department neglected.  Mr. Hegarty’s jewellery establishment also bore  witness to the festive seson in the shape of holly and evergreen.

Crossing over, Mr. P.B. Stephens’ fancy emporium is reached, and a truly dazzling sight meets the gaze.  The variety here ranges from the tiny toy to the choicest article in usefulness.  Noticeable amongst them being the rarest speciments of parian ware from the world renowned Belleek Pottery.  Farther up, the premises of Mr. Edward Stephens are choicely decorated. Floral ornamentations are also seen in the shops of Mr. McNulty, Mr. Mulrine, Mr. C. Campbell, Mr. J. Kelly and Mrs. Gallagher.  It would be impossible to chronicle and comment upon all. Down the Mall the attractive premises of Mr. Trimble are tastefully and elaborately decorated with moustached monkeys, mirth provoking clowns and other appropriate emblems, suitable for the establishment. Though somewhat out of the beaten track the premises of Mr. Myles must not be forgotten.  The decorations were on a fine scale and thoroughly artistic, obtaining no aid, however, from the nature of his goods, ironmongery and such like, being perhaps the most difficult of all to show off with any effect.

Mr. Lipsett’s ‘recent battles’ above refers to a disagreement which he had over the Inspector Martin plaque which can be seen today in St. Anne’s Church. Trimble’s on the Mall named above were a newspaper family who still print “The Impartial Reporter” in Enniskillen. Ballyshannon had 2 newspaper at the time with McAdam’s Donegal Vindicator on the Port and Trimble’s Donegal Independent its rival on the Mall.

In 1889 few people were seen to be under the influence of alcohol during the festive season and there were no disturbances of any kind. Business premises in the town closed for Christmas Day and St. Stephen’s Day unlike in modern times where the holiday is generally longer.

Spread the Word: Please let people with Ballyshannon connections know about this site, particularly people who are not living locally and those who are abroad. The site is called "Ballyshannon Musings" and there are a number of back issues. The site will be updated every week or two. Next week’s blog will continue to look at Ballyshannon in the 1880s and some of the reasons for its  prominence as a  commercial centre.

New Local History Book: “Ballyshannon Genealogy and History” by Anthony Begley details the history of the Ballyshannon area in the 19^th and 20th centuries.  The book covers an area roughly to Rossnowlagh, to Belleek, to Finner/ Bundoran to the Loughside and to Ballintra. Contains 500 pages including material on tracing your roots which can be used for any part of Ireland . Includes many rare images and modern colour aerial photographs of the area. Available from The Novel Idea Ballyshannon/The Four Masters Bookshop Donegal Town or can be ordered on line from anthonyrbegley@hotmail.com Price €25 softback plus postage if required. A limited number of hardbacks also available.