Two hundred
years ago tourism in this region was in its infancy and public transport relied
on horse drawn carriages for any serious moving about in the region. Railways
did not appear in this area until the Great Northern Railway opened through
Ballyshannon, Bundoran and Belleek in 1867. Prior to that only the wealthy and
the adventurers explored the area. Below are listed 10 attractions which
brought the earliest visitors to the area. They are not listed in any order of
preference.
1. Inis Saimer Where Civilisation Began!
According to
the legendary accounts written in the early manuscripts Inis Saimer at Ballyshannon was the
location of the earliest settlers in Ireland. This small island is situated
beside the Mall Quay and Parthalon and his followers settled here having
travelled from the Mediterranean region c. 5,000 years ago. The name of the
island is said to be named after a favourite dog of Parthalon’s wife who was
killed in a fit of jealousy. But that is another story! (See Ballyshannon Genealogy and History below for further details). in the 18th
and 19th centuries the Mall Quay was a hive of industry with salmon
fishing, cargo boats, an adjacent distillery and a great view of the Assaroe Falls.
Ships plied their trade with England, Scandanavia, France and Russia to name
but a few countries. Emigrants began their long journey to the United States of
America and Canada from this harbour. Early travellers all visited the Mall
Quay and commented on the commercial life of the town which was unfortunately
hampered by the silting of sand at the bar which over time prevented ships from
entering the harbour.
2. Fishing on the Erne
The earliest
tourists who would have been seen in this area would have been fishermen who
fished the Erne which had a national reputation as the finest salmon river in
Ireland. The fishermen added to the local economy as they had to get fishing
licences from the Sheil family who lived in College Street in Ballyshannon. (Sheil
House still stands today and was known to older residents of the area as the
Brothers House where the De La Salle Brothers resided in the 20th
century. At present it is occupied by the Health Service Executive). The
fishermen also employed local gillies to show them the best fishing haunts, to
supply them with flies and bait and to carry their gear. These gentlemen
fishermen stayed in local hotels such as Cockburn’s Hotel and Browne’s Hotel , both on Main Street,where a regular feature on the landscape was the fishing
gear drying off in the front of the hotels. Rogan’s Fly Tying craft was famous
and this family deserve to be remembered for the international reputation of
their fishing flies. Today their premises are occupied by the Credit Union
building. Lough Melvin in nearby Co. Leitrim was also popular with fishermen and continues as a fishing destination today. Belleek also
shared in this fishing tourism.
3. Bundoran and the Fairy Bridges
4. Rossnowlagh Beach
5. The Pullens at Ballintra
6. Kilbarron Castle
7. The Assaroe Waterfall
3. Bundoran and the Fairy Bridges
The earliest
visitors to the seaside town of Bundoran were the gentry who rented or built
houses and who resided there for the summer season. The visitors came mainly
for the health properties associated with the bracing sea breezes and in many
senses early Bundoran was seen as a health resort. As the 19th
century progressed bathing boxes were to appear on the beaches as swimming
became more popular. The modern phenomenon of sunbathing and tanning was not a
feature of the early days and indeed a pale complexion was valued more than a
ruddy one! Local gentry such as the Allingham’s, Coanes and Sheil
family in Ballyshannon rented or owned houses in Bundoran and went to stay
there for a month or so at a time. Early travellers were extremely curious
about natural phenomena like the Giant’s Causeway, Barnesmore Gap and Bundoran
had the natural curiosity of the Fairy Bridges overlooking Tullan strand which
was frequently commented on by visitors. Bundoran was also used as a base for
fishing on Lough Melvin and the Drowes. Game hunting in the area towards
the Leitrim mountains was also very popular. Next week’s blog carries more
material about Bundoran. Bundoran really took off as a holiday resort with the coming of the Great Northern Railway in 1867.
4. Rossnowlagh Beach
William
Allingham (1824-1889) the Ballyshannon poet mentions Coolmore in Rossnowlagh and the salted
air of the Atlantic where people played in the waves in his poem called “The
Winding Banks of Erne” written in the mid-19th century. Early
tourists needed to have their own private
transport as Rossnowlagh at that time was not serviced by a railway and was not
on the direct route from Enniskillen or Derry or Sligo. Families like the Sheils
who built the hospital in Ballyshannon had an early holiday home on the ground
where the Franciscan Friary is today. It was to be the early 20th
century before Rossnowlagh became a popular resort with the arrival of the
County Donegal Railway in 1905-1906. People from Ballyshannon, Donegal Town and
further afield were able to travel to the seaside by train and with the arrival
of motorised transport Rossnowlagh’s popularity increased with people from
Northern Ireland. Creevy also became popular with the arrival of the railway. Rossnowlagh
is a jewel in the crown which developed slowly and with its magnificent beach, described by the author Stephen Gwynn as
“exquisite,” will continue to be popular in the future.
5. The Pullens at Ballintra
The river Blackwater flows through the Brownhall estate in
Ballintra and frequently disappears underground into a series of caves and rock
formations which were a source of great interest to travel writers of the past.
Called The Pullens (Pullins) they are a natural creation located a few miles
from Ballyshannon. In bygone days Captain
Hamilton opened The Pullens on 1st June every year to entertain the
public who were invited to visit this series of underground caves and river on
his estate at Brownhall. The Pullens was a major attraction as far back as the
early 19th century when the first tourists to this region had it on
their list of things to see. It helped that it was close to the main route from
Sligo to Derry. This custom of opening the Pullens to the public continued into
recent times.The estate is owned by the Hamilton family who are still
in residence in this private estate today.
6. Kilbarron Castle
The Ó
Cléirigh Castle located on a majestic site overlooking Donegal Bay was
recognized as a significant historical site as it was the home of the Ó Cléirigh
(O’Cleary) family who produced Michael Ó Cléirigh principal author of “The
Annals of the Four Masters”. Mr. and Mrs. S.C. Hall, renowned travellers, were
so taken with the site and spectacular location of the castle, which was in
ruins when they visited in 1843, that they included a sketch in their book. In
the 19th century it was not on any of the main routes and did not
get as many visits as its location merited. The ruins of the castle are well
worth a visit today as they are accessible along a panoramic pathway beginning
close to Creevy Pier. On the main road
to Rossnowlagh is the easily accesible ruins of their church called Kilbarron Church.
Wardtown Castle a short distance away was built in 1739 and commands a beautiful site overlooking the Erne estuary also featured in some of the travel writers to the area. Well worth a visit also today as there are impressive ruins and the legend of The Colleen Bawn.
Wardtown Castle a short distance away was built in 1739 and commands a beautiful site overlooking the Erne estuary also featured in some of the travel writers to the area. Well worth a visit also today as there are impressive ruins and the legend of The Colleen Bawn.
7. The Assaroe Waterfall
Travel
writers who visited the town of Ballyshannon frequently mentioned the waterfall
as the most beautiful and spectacular attraction in the town. This waterfall
was a nationally known attraction which was reputed to be one of the finest in
Ireland. The local poet William Allingham believed that the waterfall was the
heartbeat or sound of the town. Located downstream from the bridge in the
centre of town the early writers who explored the hidden Ireland always were
impressed by the salmon leaping the falls. This salmon leap drew visitors and
locals and was in its day a meeting place for people both for fishing, for
relaxation and for conversation at the end of a days work.
No more on pleasant evenings
We’ll saunter down the Mall,
When the trout is rising to the fly
The salmon to the fall.
The Assaroe
waterfall was demolished over 60 years ago when the Erne Hydro-Electric scheme
was constructed.
9. Abbey Assaroe
8. Belleek and Castlecaldwell
The
Caldwell family built a town house in Ballyshannon in the 18th
century where the Saimer Court Shopping Centre is today.Their main place of
residence was at Castlecaldwell just beyond Belleek. Richard Twiss visited the
Caldwells and stayed for a week in 1775 admiring the setting of one of
Ireland’s most beautiful country houses. The following year another famous
traveller Sir Arthur Young visited the Caldwells and whilst admiring the
beautiful surround felt that the house itself was obscured by trees. The house
and lands passed to the Bloomfields who were responsible for the building of
the world famous Belleek Pottery. The Pottery commenced in 1858 beside the bridge into the
pretty village, overlooked by the splendid falls of Rose Isle. Belleek possessed
all the necessary ingredients for a successful pottery including china clay and
felspar discovered at Castlecaldwell, great water power and the Great Northern
Railway which J.C. Bloomfield promoted. The area also benefitted from the
lucrative fishing on the river Erne.
9. Abbey Assaroe
“Gray, Gray
is Abbey Assaroe by Belashanny town,
It has neither door nor window the walls are
broken down.”
The
Cistercian Abbey of Assaroe was built in the 12th century and was
located close to the banks of the Abbey river. It overlooked the Erne estuary
and was for centuries the centre of education, religion and hospitality in the
region. Most early travellers to the area visited the location of the Abbey in
the 18th and 19th century but as it was in ruins from the
17th century the verse from William Allingham above written in the
mid 19th century could describe their impressions. Nevertheless it
is an important historical and religious site and with the grave of the last
Abbot who died in the 17th century, the Abbot Quin, still legible in
the graveyard is worth a visit.
10. The 14- Arched Bridge at Ballyshannon
Ballyshannon Musings: Good to hear that people from the Ballyshannon area are enjoying the blog in over 40 countries. Please let people with an interest in Ballyshannon and surrounding areas know about this site, particularly people who are not living locally and those who are abroad. The site is called Ballyshannon Musings and there are a number of back issues available on the internet.
Copy this link and it can be googled at http://ballyshannon-musings.blogspot.ie/ The site can be located on the internet (or by connecting to my Facebook page). New items will be posted every week on Ballyshannon Musings during 2013, the year of “The Gathering”. The blogs are original and are not taken from the book below.
Anthony Begley, local historian, published a new book entitled: "Ballyshannon. Genealogy and History" which reveals newly researched history and genealogy of the town, extending as far as the Rossnowlagh, Cashelard, Corlea, Clyhore, Higginstown and Finner areas. Includes the parishes of Kilbarron and Magh Ene.
Topics include: How to go about Tracing your Roots/The first settlers in the area/ Newly researched history of the town of Ballyshannon and the townlands in Kilbarron and Mágh Éne parishes/ Records of the first travellers and tourists to Ballyshannon, Bundoran, Belleek and Ballintra/An aerial guide to place names along the Erne from Ballyshannon to the Bar/Flora and Fauna of the area/ A history of buildings and housing estates in the locality/Graveyard Inscriptions from the Abbey graveyard, St. Joseph’s and St. Anne’s /Rolling back the years with many memories of the Great Famine, Independence struggle, hydro-electric scheme, Gaelic games, boxing, handball, Boy Scouts, soccer, mummers, characters, organisations, folklore and lots more.
Book Available from Anthony Begley Rock Ballyshannon. anthonyrbegley@hotmail.com tel. 0872351044. Enquiries welcome for postal and other details, also available from The Novel Idea Bookshop Ballyshannon and The Four Masters Bookshop Donegal Town.
The Gathering in Ballyshannon: Google “The Gathering in Ballyshannon” for more details of special events you might like to attend later in the year. Lots happening in Ballyshannon in the summertime including Rory Gallagher Festival, Ballyshannon Folk Festival also Ballyshannon 400 celebrating the granting of a town charter in 1613 and there will also be a commemoration of the Kildoney Fishermen’s victory in 1933. Check out ballyshannon.ie for further details or www.facebook.com/Ballyshannon Town Council.
The Ballyshannon and District Museum, with coffee shop available, is newly opened in Slevin's Department Store. Well worth a visit Monday to Saturday.
In neighbouring Bundoran there is an exhibition of photographs both old and more modern in The Library and also in the Tourist Office which captures the nostalgia of the seaside town over the past century. This exhibition will continue for the year of the Gathering and is well worth a look.
Next Blog posted Saturday 18th May called: "Bundoran an Early Tourist Resort and Location of a Hurling Match in 1839".
10. The 14- Arched Bridge at Ballyshannon
One of the
great scenes for the early visitors coming in the Belleek road to Ballyshannon
was the view of the 14- arched bridge over the winding banks of Erne at
Ballyshannon. This view captured the essence of the town with the barracks at
the bridge, the eel weir, the town clock, St. Anne’s Church on Mullaghnashee and St. Patrick’s Church with
its impressive architecture. This view is
captured on the cover of my book “Ballyshannon Genealogy and History” which was
a painting by local woman Maud Allingham. Fishermen cast their lines from the
bridge into the Erne below and there was great excitement and spectator sport
when a salmon was hooked and played by the fisherman.
Ballyshannon Musings: Good to hear that people from the Ballyshannon area are enjoying the blog in over 40 countries. Please let people with an interest in Ballyshannon and surrounding areas know about this site, particularly people who are not living locally and those who are abroad. The site is called Ballyshannon Musings and there are a number of back issues available on the internet.
Copy this link and it can be googled at http://ballyshannon-musings.blogspot.ie/ The site can be located on the internet (or by connecting to my Facebook page). New items will be posted every week on Ballyshannon Musings during 2013, the year of “The Gathering”. The blogs are original and are not taken from the book below.
A New
Local History suitable for those at Home and Away
Anthony Begley, local historian, published a new book entitled: "Ballyshannon. Genealogy and History" which reveals newly researched history and genealogy of the town, extending as far as the Rossnowlagh, Cashelard, Corlea, Clyhore, Higginstown and Finner areas. Includes the parishes of Kilbarron and Magh Ene.
The genealogy material provides detailed
guidelines for anyone tracing their roots in the area or anywhere in County
Donegal or Ireland. The book contains 500 pages and is richly illustrated with
stunning colour, aerial photography, original illustrations and rare photographs
of the area not seen before.
Topics include: How to go about Tracing your Roots/The first settlers in the area/ Newly researched history of the town of Ballyshannon and the townlands in Kilbarron and Mágh Éne parishes/ Records of the first travellers and tourists to Ballyshannon, Bundoran, Belleek and Ballintra/An aerial guide to place names along the Erne from Ballyshannon to the Bar/Flora and Fauna of the area/ A history of buildings and housing estates in the locality/Graveyard Inscriptions from the Abbey graveyard, St. Joseph’s and St. Anne’s /Rolling back the years with many memories of the Great Famine, Independence struggle, hydro-electric scheme, Gaelic games, boxing, handball, Boy Scouts, soccer, mummers, characters, organisations, folklore and lots more.
Book Available from Anthony Begley Rock Ballyshannon. anthonyrbegley@hotmail.com tel. 0872351044. Enquiries welcome for postal and other details, also available from The Novel Idea Bookshop Ballyshannon and The Four Masters Bookshop Donegal Town.
The Gathering in Ballyshannon: Google “The Gathering in Ballyshannon” for more details of special events you might like to attend later in the year. Lots happening in Ballyshannon in the summertime including Rory Gallagher Festival, Ballyshannon Folk Festival also Ballyshannon 400 celebrating the granting of a town charter in 1613 and there will also be a commemoration of the Kildoney Fishermen’s victory in 1933. Check out ballyshannon.ie for further details or www.facebook.com/Ballyshannon Town Council.
The Ballyshannon and District Museum, with coffee shop available, is newly opened in Slevin's Department Store. Well worth a visit Monday to Saturday.
In neighbouring Bundoran there is an exhibition of photographs both old and more modern in The Library and also in the Tourist Office which captures the nostalgia of the seaside town over the past century. This exhibition will continue for the year of the Gathering and is well worth a look.
Next Blog posted Saturday 18th May called: "Bundoran an Early Tourist Resort and Location of a Hurling Match in 1839".
Very good article about Rogan's fly tying business here http://www.goulburnvlyflyfishing.com.au/Information/articles/rogan%20of%20donegal.htm
ReplyDeleteThanks for that Harry. I have written about the Rogan family and their outstanding craft in one of my books on the local history of Ballyshannon. Regards Anthony
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